HOW TO FIT YOUR GHOST SADDLE
do scroll down to the bottom for a video slideshow, quick overview, and printable fitting instructions
The Ghost range are treeless saddles with no rigid parts, therefore incomparable in many ways with standard treed English or Western saddles.
The Ghost is designed differently from most other treeless saddles, only connecting with the horse’s back on the long back muscles, via the underside of the panels. The construction of these panels allows freedom of movement of the horse’s limbs and uninhibited muscular contraction, particularly in the shoulder and loin region, essential to the horse’s balance and development. The seat does not interfere with the horse.
Ideally, all saddles should sit behind the slope of the withers and not exceed the 18th vertebrae (behind this point, the horse’s back is too weak to take any weight). Equally so, the shape and width of the saddle should not restrict the shoulder action. Unfortunately, many horses are short-backed, making it difficult to accommodate these length restrictions. Treeless saddles are more sympathetic to this problem, and the Ghost is the most forgiving of all; the area under the cantle is non-weight-bearing, while the front of the saddle is designed to give space for the large (up to 15cm) upward and backward movement of the scapula (shoulder blade).
A further advantage of the Ghost range is their positioning; similar to a Western Saddle. This helps find the optimal position, increasing the horse and rider’s balance and comfort.
Always use an appropriate saddle-pad or numnah under your Ghost Saddle, even during fitting. This ensures the best adjustment for your horse, and protects the underside of the saddle.
We recommend the use of a mounting block or aid for use with any saddle, to protect the horse’s back.
Poor mounting techniques can harm the horse no matter what saddle is used, however with a treeless saddle, if you mount poorly and pull the saddle off balance, then ride with this imbalance, you can create ruffled hairs, friction spots, and compensation in your horse and your body, which leads to discomfort.
Panels and pad foam
Layers of crushed foam and specialist material in the Ghost panels ensure the form does not compress when hot or become rigid and unforgiving when cold. It absorbs shock and mirrors your horse, synchronising with his fluctuations, rather than offering an uncoordinated rebound. With the expert team at Ghost aiming for ongoing improvement, they test new materials regularly.
The Ghost is designed differently from most other treeless saddles, only connecting with the horse’s back on the long back muscles, via the underside of the panels. The construction of these panels allows freedom of movement of the horse’s limbs and uninhibited muscular contraction, particularly in the shoulder and loin region, essential to the horse’s balance and development. The seat does not interfere with the horse.
Ideally, all saddles should sit behind the slope of the withers and not exceed the 18th vertebrae (behind this point, the horse’s back is too weak to take any weight). Equally so, the shape and width of the saddle should not restrict the shoulder action. Unfortunately, many horses are short-backed, making it difficult to accommodate these length restrictions. Treeless saddles are more sympathetic to this problem, and the Ghost is the most forgiving of all; the area under the cantle is non-weight-bearing, while the front of the saddle is designed to give space for the large (up to 15cm) upward and backward movement of the scapula (shoulder blade).
A further advantage of the Ghost range is their positioning; similar to a Western Saddle. This helps find the optimal position, increasing the horse and rider’s balance and comfort.
Always use an appropriate saddle-pad or numnah under your Ghost Saddle, even during fitting. This ensures the best adjustment for your horse, and protects the underside of the saddle.
We recommend the use of a mounting block or aid for use with any saddle, to protect the horse’s back.
Poor mounting techniques can harm the horse no matter what saddle is used, however with a treeless saddle, if you mount poorly and pull the saddle off balance, then ride with this imbalance, you can create ruffled hairs, friction spots, and compensation in your horse and your body, which leads to discomfort.
Panels and pad foam
Layers of crushed foam and specialist material in the Ghost panels ensure the form does not compress when hot or become rigid and unforgiving when cold. It absorbs shock and mirrors your horse, synchronising with his fluctuations, rather than offering an uncoordinated rebound. With the expert team at Ghost aiming for ongoing improvement, they test new materials regularly.
Saddle Placement
We aim to have your treeless saddle placed in the position where you would naturally sit if riding bareback, which is usually just behind the horses’ withers and scapula, which is where the horse is most able to carry the rider with ease.
Usually we place the seat area at the place where you naturally sit bareback. As the pommel area and the front of the panels on the Ghost saddle is non weight baring, the horse can still move his shoulder freely.
The horse should ideally not have any weight beyond T14, and no weight beyond the last rib (T18) this makes for a much smaller area then most people realize. The further away from the horses center of gravity we move, the more soundness issues will occur.
To measure this area, first find the back edge of your horses shoulder blade (scapular), this is the point to measure from. We need to determine the distance between the back edge of the scapular to the horses last rib. Saddles cannot bear weight beyond these two points. Find your horses last rib, see picture below which is helpful. If you're not able to feel the last rib, look to where the horses coat converges together, a couple of inches in front of the hip. Then follow this in a curved line up (see blue arrow below) to the horses spine. Then drop your finger straight down till you're about 4-5 inches below the spine - this is the point to measure to, from the back edge of scapular. The distance between these two points gives you your horses saddle support area. It may be shorter than you thought.
The panels are constructed in a way that gives the horse plenty of space to move the shoulders underneath. As long as you are not sitting on top of the withers (but just behind it) there is no harm for the horse.
Roughly 20-25cm of the TOTAL LENGTH of the saddle is non weight bearing. For a 60cm panel the weight baring part is only 35-40cm. This is where you have to look at.
Usually we place the seat area at the place where you naturally sit bareback. As the pommel area and the front of the panels on the Ghost saddle is non weight baring, the horse can still move his shoulder freely.
The horse should ideally not have any weight beyond T14, and no weight beyond the last rib (T18) this makes for a much smaller area then most people realize. The further away from the horses center of gravity we move, the more soundness issues will occur.
To measure this area, first find the back edge of your horses shoulder blade (scapular), this is the point to measure from. We need to determine the distance between the back edge of the scapular to the horses last rib. Saddles cannot bear weight beyond these two points. Find your horses last rib, see picture below which is helpful. If you're not able to feel the last rib, look to where the horses coat converges together, a couple of inches in front of the hip. Then follow this in a curved line up (see blue arrow below) to the horses spine. Then drop your finger straight down till you're about 4-5 inches below the spine - this is the point to measure to, from the back edge of scapular. The distance between these two points gives you your horses saddle support area. It may be shorter than you thought.
The panels are constructed in a way that gives the horse plenty of space to move the shoulders underneath. As long as you are not sitting on top of the withers (but just behind it) there is no harm for the horse.
Roughly 20-25cm of the TOTAL LENGTH of the saddle is non weight bearing. For a 60cm panel the weight baring part is only 35-40cm. This is where you have to look at.
You do want to make sure the seat is the correct size for you, so as to avoid overloading the cantle or pommel which should be free floating. There is no such thing as 'it almost fits'
It is not always because a rider has a big behind, a slim but tall rider will always need a bigger saddle and perhaps a different model. You won't buy smaller shoes just because it looks cute (well we hope not!) So do not buy a short saddle because you think the bigger size will be too long.... as long as you the rider are not SITTING behind the 18th vertebrae, the little part of the "completely flexible cantle" won't harm the horse.
A breastplate may be used, but should never be used in a way to force or hold the saddle forward, if the saddle is moving back a little, this may be the "sweet spot" that is just right for your horse.
Also listen to what your horse tells you when positioning your saddle and take note of how they move - any tail swishing, ears back etc
Please note – you also can’t accurately judge or assess the fit of a Ghost without a riders weight in the saddle.
Panel Placement
To position the panels, generally we align the panels with the stitch lines on the saddle base, while flaring away at the front.
For most horses a spinal channel of 4 – 5cm is right, with the area under the pommel flaring out to around 9cms wide.
Narrow horses may require the panels closer together, and for a table top horse with wide shoulders you may need to extend the panels more, especially over the shoulders.
The panels will spread out slightly once you are seated in the saddle!
If panels are too wide, you may find it hard to get your balance and the saddle may not be so stable, plus the base may end up sitting on the horse’s spine!
Narrow the gap (gullet) between the panels at the front, to adjust for a horse with prominent withers. Conversely, to lower the front of the saddle, widen the gap between the panels by the pommel.
Take care with either adjustment to avoid dropping the base onto the spine or to cause a pinching effect on the withers.
After making an adjustment, glide the hand under both sides of the saddle to check that the evenness of panel contact and freedom of movement have not been undermined. Adjustments should be symmetrical.
Make sure you can still pull your treeless pad up into the gullet and make sure there is no pinching effect on the withers.
Note – do not have the panels too close together that they pinch the spine or put undue pressure over the horses wither/shoulder area, or also too wide - the base may end up sitting on the horse’s spine!
It is especially important to make sure the panels are not too far apart in the middle of the base where most of your weight will be!
Panels of different thicknesses are available for separate purchase.
Wither clearance is necessary, but a few fingers are enough. The saddle base and the pommel may sit close to the horse’s spinous process’s but are not allowed to make direct contact.
If small adjustments aren't enough, adding shims is preferable. Wool felt is an excellent material; simply cut to a wedge shape and place inside your pad or panel . Alternatively, if your horse needs adjustments over the shoulder area, Ghost offer panel shims or wedged shims in pockets - these are a pocket (they look like a half panel) which house a shim of felt or foam, thicker at the front and tapered towards the back. They velcro between the saddle base and the panel. These are great for downhill horses, asymmetrical horses, or those needing more wither clearance.
For most horses a spinal channel of 4 – 5cm is right, with the area under the pommel flaring out to around 9cms wide.
Narrow horses may require the panels closer together, and for a table top horse with wide shoulders you may need to extend the panels more, especially over the shoulders.
The panels will spread out slightly once you are seated in the saddle!
If panels are too wide, you may find it hard to get your balance and the saddle may not be so stable, plus the base may end up sitting on the horse’s spine!
Narrow the gap (gullet) between the panels at the front, to adjust for a horse with prominent withers. Conversely, to lower the front of the saddle, widen the gap between the panels by the pommel.
Take care with either adjustment to avoid dropping the base onto the spine or to cause a pinching effect on the withers.
After making an adjustment, glide the hand under both sides of the saddle to check that the evenness of panel contact and freedom of movement have not been undermined. Adjustments should be symmetrical.
Make sure you can still pull your treeless pad up into the gullet and make sure there is no pinching effect on the withers.
Note – do not have the panels too close together that they pinch the spine or put undue pressure over the horses wither/shoulder area, or also too wide - the base may end up sitting on the horse’s spine!
It is especially important to make sure the panels are not too far apart in the middle of the base where most of your weight will be!
Panels of different thicknesses are available for separate purchase.
Wither clearance is necessary, but a few fingers are enough. The saddle base and the pommel may sit close to the horse’s spinous process’s but are not allowed to make direct contact.
If small adjustments aren't enough, adding shims is preferable. Wool felt is an excellent material; simply cut to a wedge shape and place inside your pad or panel . Alternatively, if your horse needs adjustments over the shoulder area, Ghost offer panel shims or wedged shims in pockets - these are a pocket (they look like a half panel) which house a shim of felt or foam, thicker at the front and tapered towards the back. They velcro between the saddle base and the panel. These are great for downhill horses, asymmetrical horses, or those needing more wither clearance.
Saddle Pads
Ghost saddles work well with a number of treeless pads. Depending on your panels thickness and how new your saddle is, you will often find a slimmer treeless pad will work best.
We recommend treeless pads that have pockets either side of the spine for inserts, which create a clear spine channel, and that can be shimmed.
First off, please make sure your treeless pad is big enough to support your saddle – you want the saddle to be nicely balanced on the pad, with space for the pad front and back so that your saddle does not sit off the pad, or overlap over the pad edges.
Important – please always make sure your treeless pad is pulled up into the saddle gullet, and that the base panels are properly balanced on the pad inserts!
Please make sure you saddle panels are fully supported underneath by the treeless pad inserts - If there is an overlap where the saddle panel sits off the pad insert, this can cause a line of uneven pressure.
For high withered horses, who may need the panels closer together, make sure you can still pull the pad up into the gullet, and again that the panels are sitting properly on the treeless pads inserts.
For light riders/children on round, solid backed horses you may even be able to ride with a standard pad (without treeless inserts) sheepskin/wool felt pads can be especially good. Always perform the string test (or similar) to make sure you have spinal clearance.
We can supply matching Ghost pads which are a well priced pad and are shaped to fit the Ghost saddles. They come in a range of colours and come with foam inserts.
We also stock Edix pads which are another lovely pad, they have a range of styles, are well price and can suit the Ghost saddles too. They have a nice wither relief, so are good for horses with higher withers. They also have pockets for inserts either side of the spine too. Many also have 6 pockets on top of the pad for adding shims to customize the fit of your saddle. Great for awkward shaped horses.
We recommend treeless pads that have pockets either side of the spine for inserts, which create a clear spine channel, and that can be shimmed.
First off, please make sure your treeless pad is big enough to support your saddle – you want the saddle to be nicely balanced on the pad, with space for the pad front and back so that your saddle does not sit off the pad, or overlap over the pad edges.
Important – please always make sure your treeless pad is pulled up into the saddle gullet, and that the base panels are properly balanced on the pad inserts!
Please make sure you saddle panels are fully supported underneath by the treeless pad inserts - If there is an overlap where the saddle panel sits off the pad insert, this can cause a line of uneven pressure.
For high withered horses, who may need the panels closer together, make sure you can still pull the pad up into the gullet, and again that the panels are sitting properly on the treeless pads inserts.
For light riders/children on round, solid backed horses you may even be able to ride with a standard pad (without treeless inserts) sheepskin/wool felt pads can be especially good. Always perform the string test (or similar) to make sure you have spinal clearance.
We can supply matching Ghost pads which are a well priced pad and are shaped to fit the Ghost saddles. They come in a range of colours and come with foam inserts.
We also stock Edix pads which are another lovely pad, they have a range of styles, are well price and can suit the Ghost saddles too. They have a nice wither relief, so are good for horses with higher withers. They also have pockets for inserts either side of the spine too. Many also have 6 pockets on top of the pad for adding shims to customize the fit of your saddle. Great for awkward shaped horses.
Saddles nicely balanced on pad - and pulled up into gullet, with panels balanced on pad inserts
String Test
Very useful to check saddle panels are not too far apart, and to make sure the base is not making contact with the horse’s spine.
Remember, the panels will spread out slightly once you are seated in the saddle!
To start, take some baling twine and tie several double knots along the twines length, then place the twine through the saddle gullet/panel clearance channel above your usual pad.
Next ride around for a little while to make sure the foams have settled, then check and see if the knotted twine can be pulled easily through your saddle channel.
If all is moving smoothly when you pull it through both ways, your saddle set up is likely good to go!
If the twine is resistant or doesn't move, check the base panels - are they too far apart? For most horses 4-5cm along the back should be correct.
If the base panels are spaced correctly for your horses conformation, but there is still resistance on the twine, and you are not over the recommended weight limit, then you will need a quality treeless pad (with good density inserts and spinal relief), and you will need to perform the string test again, this time placing the twine under your treeless pad and pulling the twine through front to back (beware if your horse is sensitive.)
You should have no resistance when pulling the twine through.
Do not ride your horse before contacting your dealer if you experience resistance during the string test!
If you post or stand in the stirrups during your average ride, it is a good idea to repeat the string test while standing in the stirrups too.
Another way is to get a friend to see if they can see daylight through the gullet (while you are seated in the saddle!) A flashlight may be helpful.
Remember, the panels will spread out slightly once you are seated in the saddle!
To start, take some baling twine and tie several double knots along the twines length, then place the twine through the saddle gullet/panel clearance channel above your usual pad.
Next ride around for a little while to make sure the foams have settled, then check and see if the knotted twine can be pulled easily through your saddle channel.
If all is moving smoothly when you pull it through both ways, your saddle set up is likely good to go!
If the twine is resistant or doesn't move, check the base panels - are they too far apart? For most horses 4-5cm along the back should be correct.
If the base panels are spaced correctly for your horses conformation, but there is still resistance on the twine, and you are not over the recommended weight limit, then you will need a quality treeless pad (with good density inserts and spinal relief), and you will need to perform the string test again, this time placing the twine under your treeless pad and pulling the twine through front to back (beware if your horse is sensitive.)
You should have no resistance when pulling the twine through.
Do not ride your horse before contacting your dealer if you experience resistance during the string test!
If you post or stand in the stirrups during your average ride, it is a good idea to repeat the string test while standing in the stirrups too.
Another way is to get a friend to see if they can see daylight through the gullet (while you are seated in the saddle!) A flashlight may be helpful.
Shimming
Occasionally it may be necessary to improve the fit of the saddle by adding shims to the saddle-pad/numnah. This is most common in horses with uneven muscle development. Shimming will help prevent rubs and sore spots from uneven pressure on these horses.
Wool felt is an excellent material for shims; simply cut to a beveled wedge shape to fit inside your panel/pad. Also you can try a slim but dense yoga mat/foam cut with a bevel. Place the shims on top of the pad inserts, furthest away from the horse, this helps eliminate any potential ridges from the shims edges.
Experiment with the thickness and positioning of the shims to discover the optimum fit. Seek assistance to either a) check the saddle stays centred whilst riding the three paces or b) film for verification after. The best environment for this is an arena. If in any doubt, seek the advice of a professional saddle-fitter.
Ghost also offer wedged shims in pockets - these are a pocket (they look like an empty half panel) which house a shim of felt or foam, thicker at the front and tapered towards the back. They velcro between the saddle base and the panel. These are great for downhill horses, asymmetrical horses, or those needing more wither clearance.
The shims in pocket means the saddle will still contact the horse in the same way, but the rider won’t be leaning forward putting pressure to the front of the saddle, so the horse should be able to move much more comfortably.
Wool felt is an excellent material for shims; simply cut to a beveled wedge shape to fit inside your panel/pad. Also you can try a slim but dense yoga mat/foam cut with a bevel. Place the shims on top of the pad inserts, furthest away from the horse, this helps eliminate any potential ridges from the shims edges.
Experiment with the thickness and positioning of the shims to discover the optimum fit. Seek assistance to either a) check the saddle stays centred whilst riding the three paces or b) film for verification after. The best environment for this is an arena. If in any doubt, seek the advice of a professional saddle-fitter.
Ghost also offer wedged shims in pockets - these are a pocket (they look like an empty half panel) which house a shim of felt or foam, thicker at the front and tapered towards the back. They velcro between the saddle base and the panel. These are great for downhill horses, asymmetrical horses, or those needing more wither clearance.
The shims in pocket means the saddle will still contact the horse in the same way, but the rider won’t be leaning forward putting pressure to the front of the saddle, so the horse should be able to move much more comfortably.
The Rider & Balance
Shimming to help rider balance is also critically important, you the rider must feel balanced, to have a good seat and to avoid putting excess pressure over the front or rear of the saddle, the horses withers or to one side etc. A poorly balanced rider can negatively affect the horse no matter how well the saddle fits the horse.
Rider balance is critical for a happy, healthy horse that can move freely!
Treed saddles can also hide many riding ‘flaws’ so when switching to treeless, you may find your balance is not as good as you had thought! You will most likely be sitting totally different then you are used to. You will be put into a more balanced, aligned position. You may be having to use different muscles and may feel a little tight in your body at first!
A Ghost saddle will help you improve your position and riding, and become a better, more balanced rider for your horse.
However, if personal balance is a real issue for you, do consider taking up yoga or pilates, the benefits for your horse and yourself are immense.
If you do feel tipped forward, first we recommend testing the Ghost front riser shim: It is a velcro wedge bolster that alleviates a tipped forward feeling for $25. This can be moved forward or back for a lesser or greater affect in pelvis tilt. Simply lift the seat and place near the pommel.
We recommend all riders test this! If you need further balancing, the Ghost shims in pockets are another handy tool for saddle fitting. (See the section above on shims for further details.)
Also note, ruffled hairs or a saddle slipping to one side is usually always a result of an imbalanced rider – do you weight one seat bone or stirrup more than the other? Have a friend sight you from behind and take photos to check your balance.
Also check your horses’ shoulders - if one side is smaller than the other, then shim the panel or pad where the shoulder is lacking, this will enable the saddle and yourself to remain balanced .
Many horses start to change shape and improve their topline/muscles when ridden treeless, so it is important to regularly check your horse and any shims/adjustments to make sure they are still needed!
While you get used to your new saddle, we recommend taking short rides of around 15 – 20 minutes. Note - do not narrow the panels at the front to balance the rider, use shims instead.
Rider balance is critical for a happy, healthy horse that can move freely!
Treed saddles can also hide many riding ‘flaws’ so when switching to treeless, you may find your balance is not as good as you had thought! You will most likely be sitting totally different then you are used to. You will be put into a more balanced, aligned position. You may be having to use different muscles and may feel a little tight in your body at first!
A Ghost saddle will help you improve your position and riding, and become a better, more balanced rider for your horse.
However, if personal balance is a real issue for you, do consider taking up yoga or pilates, the benefits for your horse and yourself are immense.
If you do feel tipped forward, first we recommend testing the Ghost front riser shim: It is a velcro wedge bolster that alleviates a tipped forward feeling for $25. This can be moved forward or back for a lesser or greater affect in pelvis tilt. Simply lift the seat and place near the pommel.
We recommend all riders test this! If you need further balancing, the Ghost shims in pockets are another handy tool for saddle fitting. (See the section above on shims for further details.)
Also note, ruffled hairs or a saddle slipping to one side is usually always a result of an imbalanced rider – do you weight one seat bone or stirrup more than the other? Have a friend sight you from behind and take photos to check your balance.
Also check your horses’ shoulders - if one side is smaller than the other, then shim the panel or pad where the shoulder is lacking, this will enable the saddle and yourself to remain balanced .
Many horses start to change shape and improve their topline/muscles when ridden treeless, so it is important to regularly check your horse and any shims/adjustments to make sure they are still needed!
While you get used to your new saddle, we recommend taking short rides of around 15 – 20 minutes. Note - do not narrow the panels at the front to balance the rider, use shims instead.
Front Riser Shim - With & Without
Girths & Girthing
Ghost offer two girthing styles, the classic Ghost girthing on the sliding V, and their Cavallin Puro girthing.
The sliding V is original to Ghost saddles and a wonderful option for horses with a lot of motion in the barrel, the rigging can automatically adjust to the horse and move with the horse through all gaits.
The Cavallin rigging was introduced with the Puro endurance saddle and quickly became a favorite of many people for several reasons. Many have found it to be more stable, both front to back and side to side although that does vary with horse conformation/motion and a couple have found the opposite! It is smoother/slimmer under the leg and less complicated. You can still adjust the girth position to the saddle position by using different holes of the billet straps. Some people have also seen less flopping when lunging. I will have original rigging available but will probably preferentially order the Puro rigging for demo saddles. If you have a strong preference, please let me know for your demo saddle. Another point - I would always recommend the Cavallin rigging with the Italy, Lipica, and Flamenco as it's less bulky between the double flaps.
It is easy to adjust the sliding V to fix the girth-straps in the correct position, towards the horse’s natural girth groove. Simply draw the V into alignment with the girth groove, let the girth straps hang perpendicular to the ground and attach the girth. Once fastened, gravity and pressure work together and the saddle will stay in position.
Do not over tighten the girth; the horse needs room to expand his heart and lungs during exercise, particularly in the faster paces. To put this in perspective, his lungs can expand to accommodate 15 litres of air. Your lung capacity is 6 litres. And while your heart is the size of a fist, your horse’s heart at rest is about the size (and weight!) of a large, full handbag. Both organs need mobile ribs to function effectively.
To leave this area unrestricted, we highly recommend the Ghost Westip elastic girth or the Christ Banana/Moon girth, particularly for horses with a more forward girth groove. It allows the girth to sit in the groove whilst the saddle sits slightly behind, in its optimum position. This curved girth helps prevent a forward drag on the saddle. Ghost also offer a lovely sheepskin sleeve for their Westip Girth.
Make sure your Girth is long enough to avoid pinching or rubbing from buckles, the girth should sit about one hands - two hands width above your horses elbows.
You want the girth to be neither too short, or too long, this will give you optimal stability.
For Ghost we use a dressage girth, so when converting from a regular girth subtract 20 inches, so if you usually use a 48 inch, for a dressage girth you will use a 28 inch.
Also watch your horse if it did suffer from saddle pain previously as it will have a tendency to blow and brace. For these horses it is best to girth up then lead them a few steps, tighten the girth, lead another few steps, tighten again and then it should be safe and fine to hop on.
After any riding for 2 hours it is recommended to hop off your horse, loosen the saddle and let your horse walk and stretch his muscles without weight in the seat, allowing his back to breath and encouraging blood flow.
The sliding V is original to Ghost saddles and a wonderful option for horses with a lot of motion in the barrel, the rigging can automatically adjust to the horse and move with the horse through all gaits.
The Cavallin rigging was introduced with the Puro endurance saddle and quickly became a favorite of many people for several reasons. Many have found it to be more stable, both front to back and side to side although that does vary with horse conformation/motion and a couple have found the opposite! It is smoother/slimmer under the leg and less complicated. You can still adjust the girth position to the saddle position by using different holes of the billet straps. Some people have also seen less flopping when lunging. I will have original rigging available but will probably preferentially order the Puro rigging for demo saddles. If you have a strong preference, please let me know for your demo saddle. Another point - I would always recommend the Cavallin rigging with the Italy, Lipica, and Flamenco as it's less bulky between the double flaps.
It is easy to adjust the sliding V to fix the girth-straps in the correct position, towards the horse’s natural girth groove. Simply draw the V into alignment with the girth groove, let the girth straps hang perpendicular to the ground and attach the girth. Once fastened, gravity and pressure work together and the saddle will stay in position.
Do not over tighten the girth; the horse needs room to expand his heart and lungs during exercise, particularly in the faster paces. To put this in perspective, his lungs can expand to accommodate 15 litres of air. Your lung capacity is 6 litres. And while your heart is the size of a fist, your horse’s heart at rest is about the size (and weight!) of a large, full handbag. Both organs need mobile ribs to function effectively.
To leave this area unrestricted, we highly recommend the Ghost Westip elastic girth or the Christ Banana/Moon girth, particularly for horses with a more forward girth groove. It allows the girth to sit in the groove whilst the saddle sits slightly behind, in its optimum position. This curved girth helps prevent a forward drag on the saddle. Ghost also offer a lovely sheepskin sleeve for their Westip Girth.
Make sure your Girth is long enough to avoid pinching or rubbing from buckles, the girth should sit about one hands - two hands width above your horses elbows.
You want the girth to be neither too short, or too long, this will give you optimal stability.
For Ghost we use a dressage girth, so when converting from a regular girth subtract 20 inches, so if you usually use a 48 inch, for a dressage girth you will use a 28 inch.
Also watch your horse if it did suffer from saddle pain previously as it will have a tendency to blow and brace. For these horses it is best to girth up then lead them a few steps, tighten the girth, lead another few steps, tighten again and then it should be safe and fine to hop on.
After any riding for 2 hours it is recommended to hop off your horse, loosen the saddle and let your horse walk and stretch his muscles without weight in the seat, allowing his back to breath and encouraging blood flow.
click below images for a larger view
Ghost Classic Girthing (left) Puro Girthing (middle & right)
Will the Saddle Settle as I Ride / New Saddles
If you have a brand-new Ghost saddle, it will take a few rides for it to break in and feel “right.” 😊
Yes, the saddle doesn't weigh enough to settle without a rider in place. It will settle as soon as you sit and additionally over the first few rides as the leather breaks in, the foams conform to your weight and the horse's shape and motion. Keeping this in mind, it is always wise to check your girth before and after mounting. You are likely to need to tighten one notch tighter compared to a treed saddle.
Always mount from a block or terrain until you have tested the stability of the saddle on any horse your ride.
For most average shaped horses, doing a short test ride is best, before you start fiddling with shims etc, as the saddle fit and feel can change for you, as it breaks in.
Another note - you cannot determine fit without the saddle having been ridden and somewhat conformed to the horse's back. There is almost zero chance the saddle can bridge with an adult rider and a healthy horse back, so don't judge bridging without the rider in place!
Yes, the saddle doesn't weigh enough to settle without a rider in place. It will settle as soon as you sit and additionally over the first few rides as the leather breaks in, the foams conform to your weight and the horse's shape and motion. Keeping this in mind, it is always wise to check your girth before and after mounting. You are likely to need to tighten one notch tighter compared to a treed saddle.
Always mount from a block or terrain until you have tested the stability of the saddle on any horse your ride.
For most average shaped horses, doing a short test ride is best, before you start fiddling with shims etc, as the saddle fit and feel can change for you, as it breaks in.
Another note - you cannot determine fit without the saddle having been ridden and somewhat conformed to the horse's back. There is almost zero chance the saddle can bridge with an adult rider and a healthy horse back, so don't judge bridging without the rider in place!
Shoulder ComfortIf you want to check shoulder comfort for your horse, saddle and ride as usual. While sitting in the saddle at a halt, slide your hand under the front of the saddle (between the horse and the saddle pad) and feel your horses shoulder blade.
Depending on your pad material, it may be harder to slide your fingers under, as wool fleece and sympanova are particularly grippy. That is okay however, as what you are checking for is the amount of pressure you feel once your hand is under there. Keeping in mind that it will not be quite as tight for your horse once your hand is not stuffed in there, the feeling of pressure you are looking for is no more then a firm to very firm handshake. Try repeating this test at a walk and trot too, as there may be more or less pressure depending on how your horse carries himself (if he raises his back to move, then there will be less pressure under the front and back of the saddle). If you can feel the horse’s shoulder moving back and forth under the saddle and your hand is not getting uncomfortably pinched, then the horse’s shoulder is not getting uncomfortably pinched either. Wither clearance is necessary, but a few fingers are enough. The saddle base and the pommel may sit close to the horse’s spinous process’s but are not allowed to make direct contact. |
click pictures below for a larger view
Stirrup Leathers
When attaching the stirrup leathers, please always make sure the buckle is by your ankle! Otherwise this may void your warranty.
Ghost saddles offer two positions, a more forward general purpose option, and the back ring, which offers a more classical dressage feel.
Feel free to experiment with what’s best for you! see video here for attaching the leathers
For attaching Ghost's new T Webbers, please see this video here.
Ghost also offers fenders – either slide on fenders which go on to your stirrup leathers, or single strap western fenders (these use only one stirrup ring) or the full western fenders which uses both stirrup rings (very good for stabilizing your leg)
Ghost also offers a Velcro stirrup ring plate, originally brought out with the Puro endurance model, which Velcro’s underneath the seat, allowing you to customize your stirrup position.
We recommend safety stirrups for all saddles that have a closed stirrup ring system.
We hope you have many happy hours riding in your Ghost treeless saddle, and please keep in touch with us and let us know how you and your horse are doing!
And remember, if you have any questions, we offer a 2 year warranty, which includes unlimited email fitting advice and support from us!
Kindly,
Sarah
Natural Equine Treeless Saddlery
And remember, if you have any questions, we offer a 2 year warranty, which includes unlimited email fitting advice and support from us!
Kindly,
Sarah
Natural Equine Treeless Saddlery
Ghost Fitting Slideshow
GHOST FITTING OVERVIEW/RECAP
- Position the Ghost saddle on the horse, so that the rider will be sitting in the area they would naturally sit if riding bareback, usually just behind the horse’s wither. This may be somewhat further forward then your traditional treed saddle as there is no rigid tree to pinch the scapula.
- The panels are constructed in a way that gives the horse plenty of space to move the shoulders underneath. As long as you are not sitting on top of the withers (but just behind it) there is no harm for the horse.
- Even though Ghost aesthetically simulates an english saddle, the panel length construction idea is closer to that of a Western, where the final part of the skirts lie over the lumbar, because they are not bearing weight.
- Roughly 20-25cm of the TOTAL LENGTH of the saddle is non weight bearing. For a 60cm panel the weight baring part is only 35-40cm. Great for short backs!
- As long as you the rider are not SITTING behind the 18th vertebrae, the little part of the "completely flexible cantle" won't harm the horse
- Do not sit on the cantle of your Ghost!
- When you adjust the panels make sure you replace them symmetrically and do not widen too far, as the foam spreads laterally once the rider is mounted.
- The Panels should rest on the long muscle that runs parallel to the spine, not the ribs
-
- A width of 4 – 5cm down the channel is right for the average horse, flaring out to 9cm by the pommel.
- It is especially important to make sure the panels are not too far apart in the middle of the base where most of your weight will be!
-
- Make sure the pad is pulled up into the gullet.
-
- Make sure the saddle panels are resting fully on the treeless pad, with no panels overlapping over the pad inserts.
-
- The ‘String Test’ is helpful to determine the base panels have not been widened to far - If the panels are too wide the base may end up sitting on the horse’s spine.
- A breastplate may be used, but should never be used in a way to force or hold the saddle forward, if the saddle is moving back a little, this may be the "sweet spot" that is right for your horse.
- Use a Girth long enough to have the buckles above the horses elbow (a hand or so higher is often right.)
- The buckles of your stirrup leathers need to sit by your ankle joints.
- We recommend safety stirrups for all saddles that have a closed stirrup ring system.
- After any riding for 2 hours it is recommended to hop off your horse, loosen the saddle and let your horse walk and stretch his muscles without weight in the seat, allowing his back to breath and encouraging blood flow.
- Saddles need time to break in 😊
- If you have a brand-new Ghost saddle, it will take a few rides for it to break in and feel “right.”
- You may find your body has to adjust to riding in a treeless saddle!
- Rider balance is critical for a happy, healthy horse that can move freely!
- If you feel tipped forward, we recommend testing the Ghost front riser shim.
- Do not narrow the panels at the front to balance the rider, use shims instead.
- You can’t judge the fit without a rider in the saddle!
- IMPORTANT - Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
- Any questions or queries please feel free to get in touch, we are here to help!
- We hope you have many happy hours riding in your Ghost treeless saddle! 😊
Ghost Saddle Care
Leather needs to breathe, and must be stored in a dry and airy space.
If the leather begins to feel dry, wipe down the saddle with a light leather oil or moisturising cream. Please do not ‘soak’ the saddle in oil or conditioner and do not oil your saddle too often, as this can weaken the leather. Leather soap may also be used to clean the saddle. Always use products intended for use on nubuck/oiled nubuck leather.
Lorica can be washed with a sponge with lukewarm water, or a little dish soap on a cloth - it does not need to be oiled or sprayed.
Try to keep Velcro clean - in household shops you can purchase special Velcro cleaning tools to remove hairs, hay and straw.
Do not dry a wet saddle near heating, in the full sun, or a camp-fire. This might damage the material.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
The flexible nature of the Ghost saddle layers can mean that if left unsupported in a hot area, or left with heavy items on top of it, that the saddle may warp somewhat.
If the leather begins to feel dry, wipe down the saddle with a light leather oil or moisturising cream. Please do not ‘soak’ the saddle in oil or conditioner and do not oil your saddle too often, as this can weaken the leather. Leather soap may also be used to clean the saddle. Always use products intended for use on nubuck/oiled nubuck leather.
Lorica can be washed with a sponge with lukewarm water, or a little dish soap on a cloth - it does not need to be oiled or sprayed.
Try to keep Velcro clean - in household shops you can purchase special Velcro cleaning tools to remove hairs, hay and straw.
Do not dry a wet saddle near heating, in the full sun, or a camp-fire. This might damage the material.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
The flexible nature of the Ghost saddle layers can mean that if left unsupported in a hot area, or left with heavy items on top of it, that the saddle may warp somewhat.
Equestrian activities can be dangerous. In no event shall Natural Equine/Ghost Saddle or its owners be liable for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental, special, consequential damages, or any damages whatsoever arising out of or connected with the use or misuse of its product(s). Buyer assumes all risks and liability from use of product(s).
Always check equipment before use on every occasion that it is used for signs of wear and tear or damage. Do not use the equipment if it is showing any signs of wear and tear or damage. If the equipment is within the warranty period you must stop using it and return it for repair or replacement.
You are responsible for the safety of You and Your equine and must always choose equipment that is appropriate to You and Your equine, it is essential that you are properly trained and experienced before applying any new equipment to an equine. If you have any doubts about Your capabilities or suitability of the equipment for Your equine please seek expert assistance from a professional before using any products.
Always check equipment before use on every occasion that it is used for signs of wear and tear or damage. Do not use the equipment if it is showing any signs of wear and tear or damage. If the equipment is within the warranty period you must stop using it and return it for repair or replacement.
You are responsible for the safety of You and Your equine and must always choose equipment that is appropriate to You and Your equine, it is essential that you are properly trained and experienced before applying any new equipment to an equine. If you have any doubts about Your capabilities or suitability of the equipment for Your equine please seek expert assistance from a professional before using any products.
Ghost Saddle Warranty Information for NZ
Your new GHOST saddle is protected under a 2-year Warranty against all manufacturing faults.
Ghost Saddles Italy will repair or replace (at their discretion) the Ghost saddle parts if the saddle is defective in workmanship or materials to the degree that the saddle is unsafe or unusable.
(Please note: the action on the fault- to repair or replace- is a choice reserved solely to the discretion and expertise of the manufacturer. The decision to repair or replace is based on the specific nature of the manufacturing fault after careful study and evidentiary support.)
To obtain service under this warranty the original purchaser must contact Ghost Saddles immediately upon realization of a defect. Purchaser will be required to provide clear photos and details of the issue, as requested by Ghost. For New Zealand & Australian customers please contact Natural Equine NZ.
The warranty is non – transferable past first point of sale, and does not cover a Ghost saddle sold second hand.
Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles shall not be held responsible for saddles that have been tampered with, altered or misused in any way. This includes, but is not limited to:
• using the saddle on a horse shape which was not approved of by your dealer. Unsupervised usage under a rider who is not of an approved type, riders heavier then 90kg, or children left to tack up unsupervised.
• using the saddle directly on a horse’s back or without recommended padding.
•changing or removing any component in or on the saddles & accessories without prior advisement directly from Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles, or where there is visible inappropriate use of the saddle in any way.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
Poor riding will harm a horse regardless of what equipment is used. Unbalanced/inexperienced riders are suggested to work on improving balance with exercises such as yoga or pilates, and to take supervised riding lessons for the benefit of both horse and rider.
Please note leather is a natural product, and colour, textures and patterns may vary from saddle to saddle. It may show signs of the animal it came from – bruises, brands etc. The colour dying process may also produce varying results. Your leather can show signs of use from the moment your start using it, this is normal behaviour for leather. Abnormal thinning or rapid discolouration should be reported to your dealer. Fresh cuts or scratches from transport should be reported immediately.
Ghost Saddles Italy will repair or replace (at their discretion) the Ghost saddle parts if the saddle is defective in workmanship or materials to the degree that the saddle is unsafe or unusable.
(Please note: the action on the fault- to repair or replace- is a choice reserved solely to the discretion and expertise of the manufacturer. The decision to repair or replace is based on the specific nature of the manufacturing fault after careful study and evidentiary support.)
To obtain service under this warranty the original purchaser must contact Ghost Saddles immediately upon realization of a defect. Purchaser will be required to provide clear photos and details of the issue, as requested by Ghost. For New Zealand & Australian customers please contact Natural Equine NZ.
The warranty is non – transferable past first point of sale, and does not cover a Ghost saddle sold second hand.
Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles shall not be held responsible for saddles that have been tampered with, altered or misused in any way. This includes, but is not limited to:
• using the saddle on a horse shape which was not approved of by your dealer. Unsupervised usage under a rider who is not of an approved type, riders heavier then 90kg, or children left to tack up unsupervised.
• using the saddle directly on a horse’s back or without recommended padding.
•changing or removing any component in or on the saddles & accessories without prior advisement directly from Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles, or where there is visible inappropriate use of the saddle in any way.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
Poor riding will harm a horse regardless of what equipment is used. Unbalanced/inexperienced riders are suggested to work on improving balance with exercises such as yoga or pilates, and to take supervised riding lessons for the benefit of both horse and rider.
Please note leather is a natural product, and colour, textures and patterns may vary from saddle to saddle. It may show signs of the animal it came from – bruises, brands etc. The colour dying process may also produce varying results. Your leather can show signs of use from the moment your start using it, this is normal behaviour for leather. Abnormal thinning or rapid discolouration should be reported to your dealer. Fresh cuts or scratches from transport should be reported immediately.