HOW TO FIT YOUR GHOST SADDLE
do scroll down to the bottom for a video slideshow, quick overview, and printable fitting instructions
Ghost saddles are the perfect choice for pleasure riders, and for those who school, train and participate in longer trail rides. We recommend a rider weight limit of around 80kg. However, good rider-balance and supplementary padding may compensate a few extra kilos. Although we have several Endurance Riders using the Ghost saddle, we recommend a suitable endurance numnah and regular saddle-checking for this discipline, particularly for distances over 40km.
The Ghost range are treeless saddles with no rigid parts, therefore incomparable in many ways with standard treed English or Western saddles.
The Ghost is designed differently from most other treeless saddles, only connecting with the horse’s back on the long back muscles, via the underside of the panels. The construction of these panels allows freedom of movement of the horse’s limbs and uninhibited muscular contraction, particularly in the shoulder and loin region, essential to the horse’s balance and development. The seat does not interfere with the horse.
Ideally, all saddles should sit behind the slope of the withers and not exceed the 18th vertebrae (behind this point, the horse’s back is too weak to take any weight). Equally so, the shape and width of the saddle should not restrict the shoulder action. Unfortunately, many horses are short-backed, making it difficult to accommodate these length restrictions. Treeless saddles are more sympathetic to this problem, and the Ghost is the most forgiving of all; the area under the cantle is non-weight-bearing, while the front of the saddle is designed to give space for the large (up to 15cm) upward and backward movement of the scapula (shoulder blade).
A further advantage of the Ghost range is their positioning; similar to a Western Saddle. This helps find the optimal position, increasing the horse and rider’s balance and comfort.
Always use an appropriate saddle-pad or numnah under your Ghost Saddle, even during fitting. This ensures the best adjustment for your horse, and protects the underside of the saddle.
We recommend the use of a mounting block or aid for use with any saddle, to protect the horse’s back.
Panels and pad foam
Layers of crushed foam and specialist material in the Ghost panels ensure the form does not compress when hot or become rigid and unforgiving when cold. It absorbs shock and mirrors your horse, synchronising with his fluctuations, rather than offering an uncoordinated rebound. With the expert team at Ghost aiming for ongoing improvement, they test new materials regularly.
The Ghost range are treeless saddles with no rigid parts, therefore incomparable in many ways with standard treed English or Western saddles.
The Ghost is designed differently from most other treeless saddles, only connecting with the horse’s back on the long back muscles, via the underside of the panels. The construction of these panels allows freedom of movement of the horse’s limbs and uninhibited muscular contraction, particularly in the shoulder and loin region, essential to the horse’s balance and development. The seat does not interfere with the horse.
Ideally, all saddles should sit behind the slope of the withers and not exceed the 18th vertebrae (behind this point, the horse’s back is too weak to take any weight). Equally so, the shape and width of the saddle should not restrict the shoulder action. Unfortunately, many horses are short-backed, making it difficult to accommodate these length restrictions. Treeless saddles are more sympathetic to this problem, and the Ghost is the most forgiving of all; the area under the cantle is non-weight-bearing, while the front of the saddle is designed to give space for the large (up to 15cm) upward and backward movement of the scapula (shoulder blade).
A further advantage of the Ghost range is their positioning; similar to a Western Saddle. This helps find the optimal position, increasing the horse and rider’s balance and comfort.
Always use an appropriate saddle-pad or numnah under your Ghost Saddle, even during fitting. This ensures the best adjustment for your horse, and protects the underside of the saddle.
We recommend the use of a mounting block or aid for use with any saddle, to protect the horse’s back.
Panels and pad foam
Layers of crushed foam and specialist material in the Ghost panels ensure the form does not compress when hot or become rigid and unforgiving when cold. It absorbs shock and mirrors your horse, synchronising with his fluctuations, rather than offering an uncoordinated rebound. With the expert team at Ghost aiming for ongoing improvement, they test new materials regularly.
Saddle Placement
We aim to have your treeless saddle placed in the position where you would naturally sit if riding bareback, which is usually just behind the horses’ withers and scapula, which is where the horse is most able to carry the rider with ease.
Usually we place the seat area at the place where you naturally sit bareback. As the pommel area and the front of the panels on the Ghost saddle is non weight baring, the horse can still move his shoulder freely.
The horse should ideally not have any weight beyond T14, and no weight beyond the last rib (T18) this makes for a much smaller area then most people realize. (If the last rib is not visible, then this is usually the area where the hair directions meet, and where the water line runs down a wet horse.) The further away from the horses center of gravity we move, the more soundness issues will occur.
You do want to make sure the seat is the correct size for you, so as to avoid overloading the cantle or pommel.
A breastplate may be used, but should never be used in a way to force or hold the saddle forward, if the saddle is moving back a little, this may be the "sweet spot" that is just right for your horse.
Also listen to what your horse tells you when positioning your saddle and take note of how they move.
Usually we place the seat area at the place where you naturally sit bareback. As the pommel area and the front of the panels on the Ghost saddle is non weight baring, the horse can still move his shoulder freely.
The horse should ideally not have any weight beyond T14, and no weight beyond the last rib (T18) this makes for a much smaller area then most people realize. (If the last rib is not visible, then this is usually the area where the hair directions meet, and where the water line runs down a wet horse.) The further away from the horses center of gravity we move, the more soundness issues will occur.
You do want to make sure the seat is the correct size for you, so as to avoid overloading the cantle or pommel.
A breastplate may be used, but should never be used in a way to force or hold the saddle forward, if the saddle is moving back a little, this may be the "sweet spot" that is just right for your horse.
Also listen to what your horse tells you when positioning your saddle and take note of how they move.
Panel Placement
To position the panels, generally we align the panels with the stitch lines on the saddle base, while flaring away at the front.
For most horses a spinal channel of 4 – 5cm is right, with the area under the pommel flaring out to around 9cms wide.
Narrow horses may require the panels closer together, and for a table top horse with wide shoulders you may need to extend the panels more, especially over the shoulders. If panels are too wide, you may find it hard to get your balance and the saddle may not be so stable, plus the base may end up sitting on the horse’s spine!
Narrow the gap (gullet) between the panels at the front, to raise the saddle and rebalance it for a downhill horse. Adjust similarly for a horse with prominent withers. Conversely, to lower the front of the saddle, widen the gap between the panels by the pommel.
For a bum high horse, you can widen the panels by the cantle.
Take care with either adjustment to avoid dropping the base onto the spine or to cause a pinching effect on the withers.
After making an adjustment, glide the hand under both sides of the saddle to check that the evenness of panel contact and freedom of movement have not been undermined. Adjustments should be symmetrical.
Panels of different thicknesses are available for separate purchase.
Wither clearance is necessary, but a few fingers are enough. The saddle base and the pommel may sit close to the horse’s spinous process’s but are not allowed to make direct contact.
If small adjustments aren't enough, adding shims inside a correction pad is preferable. Wool felt is an excellent material; simply cut to a wedge shape.
For most horses a spinal channel of 4 – 5cm is right, with the area under the pommel flaring out to around 9cms wide.
Narrow horses may require the panels closer together, and for a table top horse with wide shoulders you may need to extend the panels more, especially over the shoulders. If panels are too wide, you may find it hard to get your balance and the saddle may not be so stable, plus the base may end up sitting on the horse’s spine!
Narrow the gap (gullet) between the panels at the front, to raise the saddle and rebalance it for a downhill horse. Adjust similarly for a horse with prominent withers. Conversely, to lower the front of the saddle, widen the gap between the panels by the pommel.
For a bum high horse, you can widen the panels by the cantle.
Take care with either adjustment to avoid dropping the base onto the spine or to cause a pinching effect on the withers.
After making an adjustment, glide the hand under both sides of the saddle to check that the evenness of panel contact and freedom of movement have not been undermined. Adjustments should be symmetrical.
Panels of different thicknesses are available for separate purchase.
Wither clearance is necessary, but a few fingers are enough. The saddle base and the pommel may sit close to the horse’s spinous process’s but are not allowed to make direct contact.
If small adjustments aren't enough, adding shims inside a correction pad is preferable. Wool felt is an excellent material; simply cut to a wedge shape.
Saddle Pads
Ghost saddles work well with a number of treeless pads. We recommend treeless pads that have pockets either side of the spine for inserts, which create a clear spine channel, and that can be shimmed.
We supply matching Ghost pads which are a lovely well priced pad and are shaped to fit the Ghost saddles. We also stock Christ pads which are another lovely pad, the sheepskin lining and quality of these pads is very nice. They also suit the Ghost saddles well, and have pockets for inserts either side of the spine too, which are included with purchase.
We supply matching Ghost pads which are a lovely well priced pad and are shaped to fit the Ghost saddles. We also stock Christ pads which are another lovely pad, the sheepskin lining and quality of these pads is very nice. They also suit the Ghost saddles well, and have pockets for inserts either side of the spine too, which are included with purchase.
Shimming
Occasionally it may be necessary to improve the fit of the saddle by adding shims to the saddle-pad/numnah. This is most common in horses with uneven muscle development or horses whose natural conformation makes fitting saddles difficult. Shimming the saddle-pads and/or numnah will help prevent sores from uneven pressure on these types of horse.
Experiment with the thickness and positioning of the shims to discover the optimum fit. Seek assistance to either a) check the saddle stays centred whilst riding the three paces or b) film for verification after. The best environment for this is an arena. If in any doubt, seek the advice of a professional saddle-fitter.
Your new saddle will settle after a few rides, as it adapts to your seat and the horse’s shape. Thereafter, the saddle will easily adapt to different horse and rider combinations.
Experiment with the thickness and positioning of the shims to discover the optimum fit. Seek assistance to either a) check the saddle stays centred whilst riding the three paces or b) film for verification after. The best environment for this is an arena. If in any doubt, seek the advice of a professional saddle-fitter.
Your new saddle will settle after a few rides, as it adapts to your seat and the horse’s shape. Thereafter, the saddle will easily adapt to different horse and rider combinations.
Girths & Girthing
It is easy to adjust the sliding V to fix the girth-straps in the correct position, towards the horse’s natural girth groove. Simply draw the V into alignment with the girth groove, let the girth straps hang perpendicular to the ground and attach the girth. Once fastened, gravity and pressure work together and the saddle will stay in position.
Do not over tighten the girth; the horse needs room to expand his heart and lungs during exercise, particularly in the faster paces. To put this in perspective, his lungs can expand to accommodate 15 litres of air. Your lung capacity is 6 litres. And while your heart is the size of a fist, your horse’s heart at rest is about the size (and weight!) of a large, full handbag. Both organs need mobile ribs to function effectively.
To leave this area unrestricted, we highly recommend the Ghost Westip elastic girth or the Christ Banana/Moon girth, particularly for horses with a more forward girth groove. It allows the girth to sit in the groove whilst the saddle sits slightly behind, in its optimum position. This curved girth helps prevent a forward drag on the saddle. Ghost also offer a lovely sheepskin sleeve for their Westip Girth.
Make sure your Girth is long enough to avoid pinching or rubbing from buckles, the girth should sit about one hands - two hands width above your horses elbows, or 2 -3 inches below the saddle/pad skirt. For Ghost we use a dressage girth, so when converting from a regular girth subtract 20 inches, so if you usually use a 48 inch, for a dressage girth you will use a 28 inch.
Also watch your horse if it did suffer from saddle pain previously as it will have a tendency to blow and brace. For these horses it is best to girth up then lead them a few steps, tighten the girth, lead another few steps, tighten again and then it should be safe and fine to hop on.
After any riding for 2 hours it is recommended to hop off your horse, loosen the saddle and let your horse walk and stretch his muscles without weight in the seat, allowing his back to breath and encouraging blood flow.
Do not over tighten the girth; the horse needs room to expand his heart and lungs during exercise, particularly in the faster paces. To put this in perspective, his lungs can expand to accommodate 15 litres of air. Your lung capacity is 6 litres. And while your heart is the size of a fist, your horse’s heart at rest is about the size (and weight!) of a large, full handbag. Both organs need mobile ribs to function effectively.
To leave this area unrestricted, we highly recommend the Ghost Westip elastic girth or the Christ Banana/Moon girth, particularly for horses with a more forward girth groove. It allows the girth to sit in the groove whilst the saddle sits slightly behind, in its optimum position. This curved girth helps prevent a forward drag on the saddle. Ghost also offer a lovely sheepskin sleeve for their Westip Girth.
Make sure your Girth is long enough to avoid pinching or rubbing from buckles, the girth should sit about one hands - two hands width above your horses elbows, or 2 -3 inches below the saddle/pad skirt. For Ghost we use a dressage girth, so when converting from a regular girth subtract 20 inches, so if you usually use a 48 inch, for a dressage girth you will use a 28 inch.
Also watch your horse if it did suffer from saddle pain previously as it will have a tendency to blow and brace. For these horses it is best to girth up then lead them a few steps, tighten the girth, lead another few steps, tighten again and then it should be safe and fine to hop on.
After any riding for 2 hours it is recommended to hop off your horse, loosen the saddle and let your horse walk and stretch his muscles without weight in the seat, allowing his back to breath and encouraging blood flow.
click below images for a larger view
The String Test
Very useful to check saddle panels are not too far apart, and to make sure the base is not making contact with the horse’s spine.
To start, take some baling twine and tie several double knots along the twines length, then place the twine through the saddle gullet/panel clearance channel above your usual pad. Next ride around for a little while to make sure the foams have settled, then check and see if the knotted twine can be pulled easily through your saddle channel.
If all is moving smoothly when you pull it through both ways, your saddle set up is likely good to go!
For those lighter riders (45 kg and under) and on round and solid backed horses you may even be able to ride with a standard pad (without treeless inserts) sheepskin/wool felt pads can be especially good.
If the twine is resistant or doesn't move, check the base panels - are they too far apart? For most horses 4-5cm along the back should be correct.
If the base panels are spaced correctly for your horses conformation, but there is still resistance on the twine, and you are not over the recommended weight limit, then you will need a quality treeless pad (with good density inserts and spinal relief), and you will need to perform the string test again, this time placing the twine under your treeless pad and pulling the twine through front to back (beware if your horse is sensitive.)
You should have no resistance when pulling the twine through.
Do not ride your horse before contacting your dealer if you experience resistance during the string test!
If you post or stand in the stirrups during your average ride, it is a good idea to repeat the string test while standing in the stirrups too.
To start, take some baling twine and tie several double knots along the twines length, then place the twine through the saddle gullet/panel clearance channel above your usual pad. Next ride around for a little while to make sure the foams have settled, then check and see if the knotted twine can be pulled easily through your saddle channel.
If all is moving smoothly when you pull it through both ways, your saddle set up is likely good to go!
For those lighter riders (45 kg and under) and on round and solid backed horses you may even be able to ride with a standard pad (without treeless inserts) sheepskin/wool felt pads can be especially good.
If the twine is resistant or doesn't move, check the base panels - are they too far apart? For most horses 4-5cm along the back should be correct.
If the base panels are spaced correctly for your horses conformation, but there is still resistance on the twine, and you are not over the recommended weight limit, then you will need a quality treeless pad (with good density inserts and spinal relief), and you will need to perform the string test again, this time placing the twine under your treeless pad and pulling the twine through front to back (beware if your horse is sensitive.)
You should have no resistance when pulling the twine through.
Do not ride your horse before contacting your dealer if you experience resistance during the string test!
If you post or stand in the stirrups during your average ride, it is a good idea to repeat the string test while standing in the stirrups too.
|
Shoulder ComfortIf you want to check shoulder comfort for your horse, saddle and ride as usual. While sitting in the saddle at a halt, slide your hand under the front of the saddle (between the horse and the saddle pad) and feel your horses shoulder blade.
Depending on your pad material, it may be harder to slide your fingers under, as wool fleece and sympanova are particularly grippy. That is okay however, as what you are checking for is the amount of pressure you feel once your hand is under there. Keeping in mind that it will not be quite as tight for your horse once your hand is not stuffed in there, the feeling of pressure you are looking for is no more then a firm to very firm handshake. Try repeating this test at a walk and trot too, as there may be more or less pressure depending on how your horse carries himself (if he raises his back to move, then there will be less pressure under the front and back of the saddle). If you can feel the horse’s shoulder moving back and forth under the saddle and your hand is not getting uncomfortably pinched, then the horse’s shoulder is not getting uncomfortably pinched either. Wither clearance is necessary, but a few fingers are enough. The saddle base and the pommel may sit close to the horse’s spinous process’s but are not allowed to make direct contact. |
Stirrup Leathers
When attaching the stirrup leathers, please always make sure the buckle is by your ankle! Otherwise this may void your warranty. Ghost saddles offer two positions, a more forward general purpose option, and the back ring, which offers a more classical dressage feel. Feel free to experiment with what’s best for you! see video here for attaching the leathers
Ghost also offers fenders – either slide on fenders which go on to your stirrup leathers, or single strap western fenders (these use only one stirrup ring) or the full western fenders which uses both stirrup rings (very good for stabilizing your leg)
Ghost also offers fenders – either slide on fenders which go on to your stirrup leathers, or single strap western fenders (these use only one stirrup ring) or the full western fenders which uses both stirrup rings (very good for stabilizing your leg)
click pictures below for a larger view
The Rider
With treeless saddles do remember you will most likely be sitting totally different then you are used to. You will be more balanced, and in a more aligned position. You will be having to use different muscles and may feel a little tight in your body at first! While you get used to your new saddle, take small 20 minute rides, this helps to make sure it is adjusted for both you and your horse before you take off on those long treks!
If you have a brand new Ghost saddle, it can take a few rides for it to 'bed down.' At first the saddle can seem high! One option if this is the case for you is to remove the inserts from your treeless pad, or use a normal saddle blanket and do some gentle walking for around 20 minutes while you adjust to the new feeling!
If you have a brand new Ghost saddle, it can take a few rides for it to 'bed down.' At first the saddle can seem high! One option if this is the case for you is to remove the inserts from your treeless pad, or use a normal saddle blanket and do some gentle walking for around 20 minutes while you adjust to the new feeling!
For Rider Balance, if you feel yourself tipped forward in the saddle Ghost make a nice velcro wedge bolster that alleviates the feeling for $25 NZD. This can be moved forward or back for a lesser or greater affect in pelvis tilt. And as an added benefit to some, the bolster refines the twist and deepens the seat. To put in place, pull the velcro strip at the front of the saddle that goes between the panels, then tug the seat over one or both of the upper front Dees, peel back the seat and position the bolster. Place level with the pommel for a lesser effect or back an inch or so for a bigger effect.
We hope you have many happy hours riding in your Ghost treeless saddle, and please keep in touch with us and let us know how you and your horse are doing! And remember, if you have any questions, we offer a 2 year warranty, which includes unlimited email fitting advice and support from us!
Kindly,
Sarah - Beth
Natural Equine Treeless Saddlery
Kindly,
Sarah - Beth
Natural Equine Treeless Saddlery
Ghost Fitting Slideshow
Quick Recap
- Position the Ghost saddle on the horse, so that the rider will be sitting in the area they would naturally sit if riding bareback, usually just behind the horse’s wither. This can be somewhat further forward then your traditional treed saddle as there is no rigid tree to pinch the scapula.
- A breastplate may be used, but should never be used in a way to force or hold the saddle forward, if the saddle is moving back a little, this may be the "sweet spot" that is right for your horse.
- The area directly under the pommel and cantle on the Ghost is non weight baring and the panels are soft and non-restrictive so the horse can move his shoulder freely beneath the front of the saddle.
- Do not sit on the cantle of your Ghost
- The girthing system is on a sliding V. You can easily change the position of the girth straps and adapt the saddle to the confirmation of your horse.
- Use a Girth long enough to have the buckles above the horses elbow (about a hand higher is often right.)
- When you adjust the panels make sure you replace them symmetrically and do not widen too far, as the foam spreads laterally out some once the rider is mounted.
- The Panels should rest on the long muscle that runs parallel to the spine, not the ribs
- A width of 4 – 5cm down the channel is right for the average horse, flaring out to 9cm by the pommel.
- When decreasing the base panels for narrow horses do make sure you're not too close to the spinal processes by placing the saddle on the horse without a treeless pad and feeling along the wither.
- For downhill built horses the front of the panels often needs to be placed closer together near the pommel. For bum high horses the back of the panels can be widened.
- Feel free to experiment with panel placement, the ‘String Test’ is helpful to determine the base panels have not been widened to far - If the panels are too wide the base may end up sitting on the horses spine.
- The buckles of your stirrup leathers need to sit by your ankle joints.
- We recommend the use of a mounting block or aid for use with any saddle, to protect the horse’s back.
- After any riding for 2 hours it is recommended to hop off your horse, loosen the saddle and let your horse walk and stretch his muscles without weight in the seat, allowing his back to breath and encouraging blood flow.
Ghost Saddle Care
Leather needs to breathe, and must be stored in a dry and airy space.
If the leather begins to feel dry, wipe down the saddle with a light leather oil or moisturising cream. Please do not ‘soak’ the saddle in oil or conditioner and do not oil your saddle too often, as this can weaken the leather. Leather soap may also be used to clean the saddle. Always use products intended for use on nubuck/oiled nubuck leather.
Lorica can be washed with a sponge with lukewarm water, or a little dish soap on a cloth - it does not need to be oiled or sprayed.
Try to keep Velcro clean - in household shops you can purchase special Velcro cleaning tools to remove hairs, hay and straw.
Do not dry a wet saddle near heating, in the full sun, or a camp-fire. This might damage the material.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
If the leather begins to feel dry, wipe down the saddle with a light leather oil or moisturising cream. Please do not ‘soak’ the saddle in oil or conditioner and do not oil your saddle too often, as this can weaken the leather. Leather soap may also be used to clean the saddle. Always use products intended for use on nubuck/oiled nubuck leather.
Lorica can be washed with a sponge with lukewarm water, or a little dish soap on a cloth - it does not need to be oiled or sprayed.
Try to keep Velcro clean - in household shops you can purchase special Velcro cleaning tools to remove hairs, hay and straw.
Do not dry a wet saddle near heating, in the full sun, or a camp-fire. This might damage the material.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
Equestrian activities can be dangerous. In no event shall Natural Equine/Ghost Saddle or its owners be liable for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental, special, consequential damages, or any damages whatsoever arising out of or connected with the use or misuse of its product(s). Buyer assumes all risks and liability from use of product(s).
Always check equipment before use on every occasion that it is used for signs of wear and tear or damage. Do not use the equipment if it is showing any signs of wear and tear or damage. If the equipment is within the warranty period you must stop using it and return it for repair or replacement.
You are responsible for the safety of You and Your equine and must always choose equipment that is appropriate to You and Your equine, it is essential that you are properly trained and experienced before applying any new equipment to an equine. If you have any doubts about Your capabilities or suitability of the equipment for Your equine please seek expert assistance from a professional before using any products.
Always check equipment before use on every occasion that it is used for signs of wear and tear or damage. Do not use the equipment if it is showing any signs of wear and tear or damage. If the equipment is within the warranty period you must stop using it and return it for repair or replacement.
You are responsible for the safety of You and Your equine and must always choose equipment that is appropriate to You and Your equine, it is essential that you are properly trained and experienced before applying any new equipment to an equine. If you have any doubts about Your capabilities or suitability of the equipment for Your equine please seek expert assistance from a professional before using any products.
Ghost Saddle Warranty Information for NZ
Your new GHOST saddle is protected under a 2-year Warranty against all manufacturing faults.
Ghost Saddles Italy will repair or replace (at their discretion) the Ghost saddle parts if the saddle is defective in workmanship or materials to the degree that the saddle is unsafe or unusable.
(Please note: the action on the fault- to repair or replace- is a choice reserved solely to the discretion and expertise of the manufacturer. The decision to repair or replace is based on the specific nature of the manufacturing fault after careful study and evidentiary support.)
To obtain service under this warranty the original purchaser must contact Ghost Saddles immediately upon realization of a defect. Purchaser will be required to provide clear photos and details of the issue, as requested by Ghost. For New Zealand & Australian customers please contact Natural Equine NZ.
The warranty is non – transferable past first point of sale, and does not cover a Ghost saddle sold second hand.
Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles shall not be held responsible for saddles that have been tampered with, altered or misused in any way. This includes, but is not limited to:
• using the saddle on a horse shape which was not approved of by your dealer. Unsupervised usage under a rider who is not of an approved type, riders heavier then 90kg, or children left to tack up unsupervised.
• using the saddle directly on a horse’s back or without recommended padding.
•changing or removing any component in or on the saddles & accessories without prior advisement directly from Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles, or where there is visible inappropriate use of the saddle in any way.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
Poor riding will harm a horse regardless of what equipment is used. Unbalanced/inexperienced riders are suggested to work on improving balance with exercises such as yoga or pilates, and to take supervised riding lessons for the benefit of both horse and rider.
Please note leather is a natural product, and colour, textures and patterns may vary from saddle to saddle. It may show signs of the animal it came from – bruises, brands etc. The colour dying process may also produce varying results. Your leather can show signs of use from the moment your start using it, this is normal behaviour for leather. Abnormal thinning or rapid discolouration should be reported to your dealer. Fresh cuts or scratches from transport should be reported immediately.
Ghost Saddles Italy will repair or replace (at their discretion) the Ghost saddle parts if the saddle is defective in workmanship or materials to the degree that the saddle is unsafe or unusable.
(Please note: the action on the fault- to repair or replace- is a choice reserved solely to the discretion and expertise of the manufacturer. The decision to repair or replace is based on the specific nature of the manufacturing fault after careful study and evidentiary support.)
To obtain service under this warranty the original purchaser must contact Ghost Saddles immediately upon realization of a defect. Purchaser will be required to provide clear photos and details of the issue, as requested by Ghost. For New Zealand & Australian customers please contact Natural Equine NZ.
The warranty is non – transferable past first point of sale, and does not cover a Ghost saddle sold second hand.
Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles shall not be held responsible for saddles that have been tampered with, altered or misused in any way. This includes, but is not limited to:
• using the saddle on a horse shape which was not approved of by your dealer. Unsupervised usage under a rider who is not of an approved type, riders heavier then 90kg, or children left to tack up unsupervised.
• using the saddle directly on a horse’s back or without recommended padding.
•changing or removing any component in or on the saddles & accessories without prior advisement directly from Natural Equine & Ghost Saddles, or where there is visible inappropriate use of the saddle in any way.
Always store your saddle on a stand/rack away from temperature extremes, especially high heat. Do not leave your saddle in direct sunlight or unsupported, i.e dumped in the back of a hot car.
Poor riding will harm a horse regardless of what equipment is used. Unbalanced/inexperienced riders are suggested to work on improving balance with exercises such as yoga or pilates, and to take supervised riding lessons for the benefit of both horse and rider.
Please note leather is a natural product, and colour, textures and patterns may vary from saddle to saddle. It may show signs of the animal it came from – bruises, brands etc. The colour dying process may also produce varying results. Your leather can show signs of use from the moment your start using it, this is normal behaviour for leather. Abnormal thinning or rapid discolouration should be reported to your dealer. Fresh cuts or scratches from transport should be reported immediately.